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megadrive:regionmod:start [2015/11/03 14:31]
nlp [Thanks] Updated copyright notice for 2015
megadrive:regionmod:start [2015/12/09 09:06] (current)
nlp [Bonus]
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   * One on/off/on switch. I used a slide switch, but a toggle switch will work too.   * One on/off/on switch. I used a slide switch, but a toggle switch will work too.
-  * Three pieces of wire, preferably different colored ones. I used an old telephone ​wire, which has some added advantages.+  * Three pieces of wire, preferably different colored ones. I used an old telephone ​cable, which makes for a nicely bundled set of wires.
   * A small-ish Phillips screwdriver for opening up the Mega Drive.   * A small-ish Phillips screwdriver for opening up the Mega Drive.
   * A wire cutter and stripper.   * A wire cutter and stripper.
   * Soldering equipment and some basic soldering skills.   * Soldering equipment and some basic soldering skills.
   * One or two files. Having both a coarse and a fine file will make your life much easier.   * One or two files. Having both a coarse and a fine file will make your life much easier.
-  * A sharp knife (optional). +  * (Optional) ​A sharp knife
-  * Glue (optional). I used polyurethane (PUR) glue for my mod, also known as Gorilla Glue in the US.+  * (OptionalA small drill
 +  * (OptionalGlue. I used polyurethane (PUR) glue for my mod, also known as Gorilla Glue in the US.
  
 {{megadrive:​regionmod:​slide_switch.jpg?​240|An on/off/on slide switch}} {{megadrive:​regionmod:​slide_switch.jpg?​240|An on/off/on slide switch}}
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 As you can see, my switch is a double pole switch, so it has an extra separate row of contacts that isn't used for this mod. I might use it later to wire up a multi-colored LED that shows a different color for each region, or to switch the on-board oscillator to the correct frequency. But that's another story for another time. As you can see, my switch is a double pole switch, so it has an extra separate row of contacts that isn't used for this mod. I might use it later to wire up a multi-colored LED that shows a different color for each region, or to switch the on-board oscillator to the correct frequency. But that's another story for another time.
  
-Next, you will have to make a hole in the outer casing for the switch to pop through. If you can take apart the switch, you can use the metallic front piece as a template to mark where the hole should go. Use a sharp knife to carve the outline of the hole on the inside of the case. Now make an initial hole that is big enough to get your file through. ​You can use a drill for that, but I found it easier to just melt through the plastic case using a hot soldering iron. Then, start filing away until the hole is big enough so that the switch can fit through and move to all its positions.+Next, you will have to make a hole in the outer casing for the switch to pop through. If you can take apart the switch, you can use the metallic front piece as a template to mark where the hole should go. Use a sharp knife to carve the outline of the hole on the inside of the case. Now make an initial hole that is big enough to get your file through. ​Ideally you should ​use a drill for that, but I went the quick and dirty route and melted ​through the plastic case using a hot soldering iron. Then, start filing away until the hole is big enough so that the switch can fit through and move to all its positions.
  
 I forgot to take a picture of the finished hole, but you get the point. You will see the hole I made appear in the next couple of pictures. I forgot to take a picture of the finished hole, but you get the point. You will see the hole I made appear in the next couple of pictures.
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 {{megadrive:​regionmod:​glued_switch.jpg?​320|Switch glued to the outside casing}} {{megadrive:​regionmod:​glued_switch.jpg?​320|Switch glued to the outside casing}}
  
-Here I glued the switch to the inside of the case. The PUR glue that I used expands as it dries, so it nicely ​fills up all the gaps, and it creates a pretty strong bond too. If you don't like the permanency of glue, you can of course use some screws instead. The advantage of glue is that you don't see anything of it on the outside. (Note, the bent paper clip you see in the photo was only there to hold the switch in place while the glue dried.)+Here I glued the switch to the inside of the case. The PUR glue that I used expands as it dries, so it fills up all the gaps nicely, and it creates a pretty strong bond too. If you don't like the permanency of glue, you can of course use some screws instead. The advantage of glue is that you don't see anything of it from the outside. (Note, the bent paper clip you see in the photo was only there to hold the switch in place while the glue dried.)
  
 {{megadrive:​regionmod:​finished_switch.jpg?​320|Finished switch as seen from the outside}} {{megadrive:​regionmod:​finished_switch.jpg?​320|Finished switch as seen from the outside}}
  
-This is the switch poking through the hole after the glue dried. It's not quite perfectly centered, but you usually won't see the switch so I guess that's okay.+This is the switch poking through the hole after the glue dried. It's not quite perfectly centered, but you usually won't see the switch so that's okay.
  
 {{megadrive:​regionmod:​finished_mod.jpg?​320|Completed mod}} {{megadrive:​regionmod:​finished_mod.jpg?​320|Completed mod}}
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 {{megadrive:​regionmod:​metal_shield.jpg?​320|The metal shield fits nicely around the wires}} {{megadrive:​regionmod:​metal_shield.jpg?​320|The metal shield fits nicely around the wires}}
  
-Here you see the metal shield when it's placed back. With the switch and the wire in this position, the shield slides ​nicely ​around the whole construction. This waythe console remains easy to open up, in case I want to modify something else in the future.+Here you see the metal shield when it's placed back. With the switch and the wire in this position, the shield slides ​neatly ​around the whole construction. This way the console remains easy to open up, in case I ever want to modify something else in the future.
  
 {{megadrive:​regionmod:​switch_front.jpg?​320|Front view of the finished switch}} {{megadrive:​regionmod:​switch_top.jpg?​320|The switch is very subtle}} {{megadrive:​regionmod:​switch_front.jpg?​320|Front view of the finished switch}} {{megadrive:​regionmod:​switch_top.jpg?​320|The switch is very subtle}}
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 {{megadrive:​regionmod:​cart_slot_mod.jpg?​320|Cartridge slot modification}} {{megadrive:​regionmod:​cart_slot_mod.jpg?​320|Cartridge slot modification}}
  
-The following ​Youtube movie shows the single-switch region mod in action. Note that this recording was made using an early prototype implementation that involved a toggle switch, some speaker wire and lots of insulation tape.+The following ​YouTube video shows the single-switch region mod in action. Note that this recording was made using an early prototype implementation that involved a toggle switch, some speaker wire and lots of insulation tape.
  
-{{youtube>​large:3wNIAnmzgk8}} {{megadrive:​regionmod:​prototype_mod.jpg?​320|Prototype mod}}+{{youtube>​3wNIAnmzgk8?large}} 
 + 
 +{{megadrive:​regionmod:​prototype_mod.jpg?​320|Prototype mod}}
  
 Properly soldering down the wires solved the instability of the Japanese mode when starting up Streets of Rage 2. Also, the delay you see in Sammy/​Skate'​s name change when switching from Japanese to American, was caused by the capacitor on JP1. Now that the capacitor is removed, the change is instantaneous. Overall, the finished mod is a lot more stable and consistent than this early prototype mod. Properly soldering down the wires solved the instability of the Japanese mode when starting up Streets of Rage 2. Also, the delay you see in Sammy/​Skate'​s name change when switching from Japanese to American, was caused by the capacitor on JP1. Now that the capacitor is removed, the change is instantaneous. Overall, the finished mod is a lot more stable and consistent than this early prototype mod.
megadrive/regionmod/start.1446557488.txt.gz · Last modified: 2015/11/03 14:31 by nlp